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Hola enhorabuena por el vídeo Yo tengo que trabajar sin internet por un problema interno si descargó el paquete una vez descargado lo puedo incluir sin necesidad de conexión? Gracias y un saludo

This is a really good video with yet another opinion concerning the ASI533. I appreciate your efforts with this. With that said, let me offer my side of the story. You have almost made an issue with the square sensor size as have many others. I wonder if anyone remembers the 6x6 film format. That was a square format that I started using in the early 1970s. The square sensor size just forces you to really focus on what you want for a final image. I have the Altair 269C which is really good. However, I am looking at the ASI533 for what can be done with it using Sony e-mount lens for wide-field views - think SAO70288 as the center with the Meike 25mm f/1.8 as the "telescope" and you have a very interesting image field. The square format allows for cropping that will/should produce an image suitable for framing up to 40x60cm. I have a 21-year old Sony camera with an 8.8x6.6mm sensor that, to this day, produces beautiful images when printed at sizes up to 40x60cm. For us old-folks that square image thing is not something to worry about. I really enjoyed this video and it has helped in the decision to buy the ASI533. Thank you!

As a beginner who is picking up on this hobby, this is one very helpful tutorial for me. Thanks for sharing.

a nice tutorial for beginners, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. Please can you also share that how to stack the images.

Martinez Joseph Jones Dorothy Lewis Maria

3:25 Press and hold the Ctrl + Shift + Alt keys, and then tap the letter “e” (Mac = Command + Shift + Option, then tap “e”)

doesn't the telescope take the fun and enjoyment out of sky watching .... it's like fishing in a barrel.... PLUG-PLAY... no more enjoyment

If you use a dual band filter like the L-eNhance can you tell me how this will change the workflow??? Good video. Second question. Why didn't you use Morp trf on the "stars only" image. Thank you for the data and this video.

Nice video. If you are taking 11 minute images, is the Seestar stacking the images or does the user do it? If you are stacking the images, what software are you using? Thanx for the info.

11:56 laughs in single

thnk you very much

revisiting this video. thank you for sharing <3

Like many others who have commented, I have been a visual observer for more than 40 years and have a 20cm and 40cm dobsonian's. Living in a light polluted town means that I have been limited to what objects I can reasonably see. I have tried astrophotography in the past (using camera's and film!), which never worked for me and I realistically can't afford a full astro rig setup. When the SeeStar S50 came along I was sceptical, but since buying one in late December 2023, I have not gone back to my old scopes since. The beauty of the s50 is that I can set it up QUICKLY and image objects that I would struggle to see visually from my garden in just minutes. I have bought a Skywatcher tripod and a fine level adjuster which sits between the tripod and the scope. This provides a far more stable platform and raises the Seestar higher. The fine adjuster allows me to level the scope in seconds to within 0:1 on each occasion. I can sit in a nice comfy chair which a warm drink if it is cold and watch the image form. I have found on average 10 mins is enough for most objects, but I have exposed for longer to get more detail. As a Deep Sky observer, I was intrigued to see what the magnitude limit of the Seestar is. Having done some 30 minutes images of galaxies in Leo and Virgo, I have found that the Seestar can pickup 15th mag PGC galaxies, albeit they are just tiny "blobs", but they are there!

Just seen the seestar s50 is $399 on Amazon, great price.

Awesome ty

I m a beginner and I would like to know that do we need to record video for stacking instead of taking photo?

Hi, I received a vetec 533c camera as a gift from my wife for my birthday, I have an eq 5 pro goto and a mak127, and a single IDAS D2 filter, which telescope do you recommend 130pds, 72ED??I used this mak127 intensively and I'm really satisfied, beautiful images with jupiter, saturn and not to mention the moon, I think I'll take a step towards astrophotography.

There i more to aligning and setting up the Star Adventurer 2i than what you have covered in this video.

Your take is correct, except that in 10 years time - every mainstream telescope will be this. If we’re lucky Celestron might keep selling 8” SCTs. Increasing light pollution, no attention span for visual astronomy, and no convenient storage for an 8” Dob means this is the future. They’ll get better and cheaper as time rolls along.

Imagine in a few years the s50 will be a s100 or s150, with even more amazing results.

I bought a seestar s50 a few months ago and decided to try when I was camping in a no city light area. Once connected to phone/tablet, all I did is level it and start taking shots. Was able to get 2 deep sky objects right away, I didn't let them go for long, so they look good, but not great at only around 10 minutes. Took photo of a nebula and spiral galaxy. Next day took live moon tracking video and sun. Next night I forgot to level scope and issues. Next night, leveled scope through the app, then worked flawless. There are a fee things buggy, when first adding a new phone, takes me awhile to get it working, buy once working, non issue. Same when I connected my tablet. I can set the seestar s50 on my deck, go inside about 75 feet away and sit on couch taking shots. Hardest part for me is figuring out what is in my line of sight. Also when using scope my phone data doesn't work, so I put the app on my tablet, so I can look up things while using the seestar. Only accessories I bought was a lense cover and a $15 leveler that goes between the scope and tripod. Has wheels on the leveler to turn and makes it easy to level. Quality wise, I think the price vs quality of photos you get is well worth it. I have a large scope and always frustrated me. This seestar is easy. Amazing what something like this that is so small can do.

These smart telescopes will need a integrated Barlow, so more useful on the planets.

2:14 I think the mfg’s will make a fully integrated system like a Seestar with higher end optics, longer focal lengths and sensor’s for use by the 95th percentile of the population. ( well, of those that recognize there is something up there to photograph)! There will be no need to add anything to get good Astro photographs. If you want great photo’s then be prepared to pay greater prices, above what they cost today.

Is there some kind of check list that you can make while you setup?

I’m at the other end of my astronomy pastime. For the last 17 years I’ve spent a great deal of time under the night sky with a variety of visual telescopes, eyepieces, star atlases and observing guides. I learned the sky and thoroughly enjoyed the views of many, many objects through the eyepiece. I also spent some time with EAA with various scopes and cameras. At the ripe old age of 67 I was thinking of leaving the hobby altogether because of physical limitations hauling heavy gear around and because of cornea disease which has affected my eyesight. Enter the Seestar. It came on the scene at exactly the right time. I am able to capture a great number of objects from my deck which has a 90 degree view of the sky from North East to South East. And I’ve learned rudimentary processing of the raw fits files using Siril and other software. I get to continue with my hobby and the challenge is still there when it comes to pulling all the data out of those images. To say nothing of going after obscure targets. Best $500 US I’ve spent on astronomy gear. A toy? Maybe. But a very good toy and lots of fun.’’

This video is amazing. Im buying the seestar for my friend. He and i went up to canada for the recent Totality eclipse. Ive known him for 20 years. Ive never seen him get as excited as he did that day. The seestar is going to be a perfect gift he can take anywhere when we travel.

Hi Nick, Have you tried un-linking RGB channels on that first STF stretch? I find it eliminates the green cast so saves a bit of time in having to use SNCR. Maybe there are some downsides but I haven't seen them

I just found your channel, but I will say that you are a very good teacher. I am here in Poole, and although there is the Wessex Astronomical Society it is just a once a month meeting so I would like to get pointers from you and others. Your PHD2 video was the only one that answered my questions. Everyone else seemed to skip the bits I needed. So many thanks.

Brilliant! I have just started astrophotography, and I have been lost in the details, but this video has really switched the light on, so many thanks! You have taught me a whole lot in one video.....Now to watch your others!!!

I've watched several videos in an attempt to get into this - yours is one of the most useful; thank you :-)

I don't understand why people are fobbed off buying these unnecessary add-ons from these websites. Everything you need is in the box! The only part you might need to get and if you have a 3D printer, you can do it yourself and save a lot of money (for pennies worth of filament, they are making a killing!) is a dew shield and which will benefit if you get a lot of city light pollution and any local bright lights in the area. The only other accessory would be a Bahtinov mask, which can be 3d printed too!!

Do you prefer DSS or PixInsight for stacking? Or other software?

Just curious ..why didn't you shoot more of Southern targets?

Astrophotography is easy, but good astrophotography is hard work.

Great targets. At 40.75 degrees latitude here in dark sky Nevada, USA, I was able to image M8/M20. Wonderful colors! I am planning a trip to a very dark Nevada location for the Perseids (Check out Eastern Sierra Observatory) and putting together a list of targets for August 9-12th. After a few years, it takes a bit more effort to find targets I haven't imaged yet. Clear skies.

Thank you for this. I'm a full-time commercial photographer and have always been intrigued by astrophotography. But after investing over 55k in my work camera gear, lighting, and modifiers I don't want to go down the astro rabbit hole since I don't plan to make money on this. So I'm going to try one of them. The price compared to the 'other gear' you use? Please find me a medium format commercial still camera for 500.00. LOL, I'm looking forward to this journey so thank you.

Call me skeptical but how can a small telescope be able to view DSOs like it does. What is the magnification power rating? Is it just a device that can only present views from a database?

Great review. Wanting to purchase one but im worried theyl release a new/updated/bigger/better version! Does anyone know if that might happen??

I would add some more: elephant's trunk, question mark, iris, heart & soul nebulae and fireworks, pinwheel and whirlpool galaxies.

Sooner or later these “toys” will take over a whole segment of the Astro market just like the iPhones and Samsungs took over the point and shoot camera market . The technology will only get better and better. Thats my prediction.

One thing I didn't like is that this scope was sold as "ideal for astrophotography" by my local astro shop. Even the SkyWatcher site itself mentions photography explicitly. But unless you get the corrector/reducer, your stars are deformed when you move away from the center. But what I dislike the most about the telescope is the shoddy case it came in. You may think it's aluminium, it even says so on the site. But after packing the scope in wrong one time, I ended up with a tear in the case because it's just cardboard with a super thin layer of aluminium glued to it so that "technically" they can claim it's an "aluminium" case, but in reality, it's just cardboard cosplaying as metal. It's also too small to comfortably pack the star diagonal and eyepieces for visual observation next to the camera adapter, field flattener (0.85x reducer/corrector) and rotator. And you can forget about putting a camera in there. Currently thinking about upgrading to a larger case, made of actual metal. But it's gonna be a chore to cut out the foam to fit the scope and accessories.

Thanks have been considering buying one just for fun, for when i we get say an hour or so clear sky's

Wow! Very helpful! In 8 minutes you reduced most of my jitters over the meridician flip. The ASIAIR series has a programmable meridian flip which I had not used because of those jitters. So, thanks much for this info video. So, really, how do you go about determining if an object will need a flip or not? You said that you used to avoid objects that would pass the meridian. How do you know which ones will? What guide or guides do you use in helping select your astro objects? I have trees, etc. How do i go about deciding ahead of time which objects I can photograph for the evening, taking into account my surroundings, city lights, trees, etc., then considering my telescope, etc. Maybe you could do a tutorial on the process you use-- from square one. Say, start with no idea of what you can or will shoot. Where do you start? A tutorial along those lines would be very helpful for me. Thanks for the great videos!

I'm 64, on a pension, living in a mid-sized city with light pollution, and have an arthritic neck that makes it difficult to crane my head around to look through telescopes. I love astronomy but don't have the skills to set up a dedicated rig. I also have lots of interests and don't care to invest the time into procuring and learning how to set up professional equipment. I just want to be able to look up and see nebula and galaxies and other objects. For $499, I couldn't be happier. The other night I was with my nephew and had it set up on my front lawn as traffic passed back and forth 10 yards away on the main avenue while streetlights shone down upon us. I saw the Dumbbell Nebula was supposed to be visible, not that I could see anything but a dozen or so stars because of the light pollution. But I told it to find the nebula. We both squealed in delight as the nebula showed up on my tablet just a minute later. I still get excited over things that show up when I use it.

Does L-extreme changes focus point? Like can I focus by removing the filter and after perfect focus with a bahtinov mask I insert it back?

The one thing I would add is that one can get individual fit files of an object and then use either freeware or payware to stack and edit and get better final images. So, it can also be a "gateway" to trying the editing process.

Fundamentally it's about satisfying a deep curiosity that we humans have for finding out what is up there. Any tool that helps us do that is a legitimate one. I have recently acquired a Seestar. Coming from a photographic background where Gear Acquisition Syndrome is a trap for many, I appreciate that this bit of kit gets to the point. No one really cares what struggle you go through to get a shot.....they care about the result. (Post-processing the raw files in Siril helps considerably with its results).

One part of your review on the seestars , nick is that you do feel a bit of a disconnect with the device . I was an early adopter but sold it as I was not getting any satisfaction using the device . But I am going to buy another one , why ??? Because of the ease of use and at least seeing something in our atrocious sky is better than lugging out my other rig only to bring it in after 30 minutes .

Whilst I think the argument that it removes some of the personal-growth element by "doing it all for you" is an argument (and it is something I sometimes feel myself), I don't think it's a particularly good one. If you boil that argument down, as an example; no-one would be using modern astrophotography digital cameras, or even DSLR cameras. They'd still be struggling using plates. But that technology was superseded by another, then that tech was superseded etc etc.

A very good video about the Seestar. All the relevant arguments for its place in this hobby. The Seestar and the Dwarf are game changers opening up this hobby to more people. When I heard the news about the Seestar I ordered it directly from ZWO, eagerly waiting for the delivery. It did not disappoint. Still as I am very new to this hobby, only a bit over a year as an astrophotographer, I put my effort in buying and trying out both dedicated astro gear and DLSR/Mirrorless cameras. The first sessions were absolutely pathetic 🤣, but now I have got many good sessions during the winter and spring (when the skies are relatively clear, which are rare occasions where I live on the northern hemisphere). Like Nick says in the video, the quality of the stacks from the Seestar are OK, but you can not expect the quality you may achieve from a dedicated asto-rig. But they will set you down 10 times the price of the Seestar. And the results (images) are not 10 times better. And you *will* need to spend hours in front of your PC to get the images you get "live" from the Seestar. Post processing is a difficult skill to master. When I first was seeking advice on the net from sites like Cloudy Nights I got a bit "depressed" as the "hard core" astrophotographers seemed to be more into fiddling with the gear and scaring away newcomers about all the effort "needed" with taking calibration frames. So far I do not "waste" any time on taking calibration shots and feel my processeed images are more than good enough. The only exception is the ASI294MC. For this I take darks and flats for the setup I am using with it. Back to the Seestar. I did try it out when I got it in january, but did not use it more than a few nights as I had more than enough trying to improve my skills with my dedicated rigs. But when I went on holiday to Greece in late may I brought the Seestar with me. (The season where I live is over. Midnight sun/no dark skies from May until mid August 😵). I was mainly interested with capturing the Milky Way which I did, but I let the Seestar run when I was taking picture with my Fujitsu X-H2 paired with Samyang 14mm and Sigma 18-50mm. The stacks I got from the Seestar was very satisfying as the site I shot from was Bortle 2. So, do not listen to the "elitist" among the community regarding Seestar being a "useless toy". That is far from the truth.